We parked in the car park next to the megalithic structure at Mougau Bihan and set off down the road – no guidance from Wendy Mewes this time – we just used the map.
We set off down this quiet road and soon turned left down ‘English’ green lanes.

Croas Melar is a granite cross which commemorates the site of a battle: in 1171 the Duke of Brittany, Conan IV, and his English allies defeated the Viscount of LĂ©on, Guyomarch IV. The history of Brittany up to the Middle Ages is incredibly complicated, and violent, and I can recommend Wendy Mewes’ Discovering the History of Brittany as a succinct and clear guide.

At a crossroads the path continues uphill to the top of the hills, the Monts d’Arrees.

The views are wide: here the line of trees marks the course of the Élorn River, close to its source.




So far it had been an easy walk, with a clear path, but that was about to change! I spotted a track on the map and we turned downhill. However, we were soon lost in thick bracken and gorse and a 15-minute saunter downhill turned into a 45-minute struggle. We could of course turned back….


Finally we found the track we were looking for – wide, clear, easy.

And so back to the car
You may be interested in
The Élorn River
Photograph of the Élorn River at La Roche Maurice in 1850s
Anne Guy
You’re right a very English looking landscape…