We stopped for a few hours only, just enough time for a coffee and a walk around Astorga, on the road from Léon to Villafranca de Bierzo.
Astorga, the old Asturica Augustea, was established as a Roman city and two important roads cross here – the Ruta de la Plata and the Camino de Santiago. The Ruta de la Plata was the road used to transport mined goods from the north (Gijon) to the ports in the south of the country (Seville), and pilgrims are still passing through the town!
Cathedral in Astorga
Like most of the churches I have seen the Cathedral of Santa Maria in Astorga, which was started in 1471, was built on the site of an earlier Romanesque church.
The church of Santa Marta
The short walk around Astorga began at the Church of Santa Marta, the Parish Church of Astorga, which sits alongside the Cathedral, and the small building next to the church is the Celda de las Emparedadas. In the Middle Ages there were apparently women, in an extreme expression of religious fervour, who walled themselves up in this cell and who only communicated with the Church through another small window.
The Episcopal Palace
Antoni Gaudi designed The Episcopal Palace next to the Cathedral. It houses a museum about the Camino which we did not visit.
Plaza Mayor
We walked down to the Plaza Mayor, once the site of the Roman Forum and where I set off on a short walk in the surrounding streets.
church of San Bartolome
The Church of San Bartolomé is the oldest church in the town, and dates from the 11C. Various alterations and additions over the centuries have made the church look rather odd on the outside. I did not see the inside as sadly it was closed.
Roman remains
The Roman Museum is at the opposite end of the Plaza of San Bartolomé and round the corner you can see the remains of a Roman mansion. There are several Roman remains dotted around the city (baths, mansions, and part of the sewerage system).
Church of San Francisco
Next to the Roman remains is the Church of San Francisco with the adjacent Chapel of Santa Vera Cruz. Astorga is a walled city and the Puerta del Sol is the main gate through the Roman Walls and the entry/exit of the Camino.
The Aljibe Park
Opposite the Puerta del Sol is the Aljibe Park which leads to the Gardens of the Synagogue along the walls. There was a thriving Jewish community in Astorga until the Jews were expelled from Spain c.1490
The Church of St Julian
Here you find the Church of St Julian whose columns at the doorway look very old – I wonder if this was the site of a Romanesque, or Pre-Romanesque building?
And that brought the brief visit to this town to a close – at least I had enjoyed a short walk around Astorga!
Further information
Background and here
The Roman Museum in Astorga
Research on Roman Astorga
Numancia - London Traveller
[…] And the Roman Road no.27 on the Itinerary of Antonino2 passed here and connected Asturica Augusta (Astorga) with Zaragoza. The transhumance3 passes this way as well, so Numantia was truly on a […]
The Cathedral of Zamora - London Traveller
[…] are three naves in the Cathedral of Zamora and the choir is in the middle naves, similar to Astorga and Burgos. It is a building which really needs to be revisited many […]
Inside Burgos Cathedral - London Traveller
[…] The high altar dates from the second half of the 16th century. Rodrigo and Martin de la Haya, both natives of Burgos, directed the work of several artists in creating this magnificent and glittering work from 1562. Rodrigo, who started the work, was apparently inspired by the high altar of the cathedral in Astorga. […]
The Cathedral in Oviedo | London Traveller
[…] had seen several Cathedrals by now (Leon, Astorga, Lugo, Mondonedo) but again we stood in wonder at the vision and ability of these Mediaeval […]
Layers of time in Ribadeo | London Traveller
[…] Torre de los Moreno in 1914-15 from an Argentinian architect and an engineer who strongly admired Gaudi. Torre de los Moreno is on the Plaza Espana and a landmark in the town today. They also gave money […]
The Roman Walls of Lugo | London Traveller
[…] Lugo is the only city in the world where the Roman walls are complete. We had been travelling in Northern Spain and had seen Roman walls in Leon, but we were particularly looking forward to seeing the walls of […]
The Camino de Santiago from Leon to Villafranca | London Traveller
[…] Our road followed the Camino de Santiago from Léon to Villafranca and we decided to look at Astorga along the way. From there we took a quiet, back road to Villafranca, a journey in total of c.132 […]
wanderessence1025
Astorga was one of my favorite cities along The Way, and you have done it great justice with your beautiful photos. I love that photo of the interior of St. Julian. I didn’t get to explore the city wall like you did. Here is my Astorga experience, in case you want to compare notes: https://wanderessence.com/2019/09/08/camino-day-33-hospital-de-orbigo-to-astorga/
Did you see the Gaudí Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace)? Sadly, I missed the Gardens of the Synagogue and the Roman Museum, both of which look fascinating. 🙂
Jo’s Monday walk : Seville, second helpings | restlessjo
[…] Walking around Astorga […]
restlessjo
I do like a walled city, Candy. This looks a lovely place 🙂 🙂
Candy Blackham
For various reasons we didn’t get the best from Astorga. I think, as always, that one needs to spend time in a place before it starts to ‘reveal’ itself.
writingroma
I did not know of this place. Thanks!
Candy Blackham
A pleasure!