We visited a few of the churches in Calahorra, partly because we enjoy doing so, and partly because because religion plays such a strong part of daily life here in Spain.
The Convent of San Jose
The Convent dates from c.1598 when it was founded by the Poor Clares. It looked tight shut but I tried the locked gate, the intercom came alive, and a nun unlocked the gate and then gave us a key to the church!
The church was simple, quiet, and very peaceful, with many images of St Theresa. The reredos was ornate, as always, but not overwhelming. It has paintings depicting events in the life of St Theresa of Avila. On one side is a curious carving of Christ tied to a post, and on the other a statue of the Virgin Mary. And on one side of the nave I found statues of the Holy family very sympathetic, and realistic.
There is a Cloister but that was closed to us.
The Church of San Francisco
The church, which dates from the first half of the 17th century and formerly the Church of San Salvador and then the Convent of San Francisco, is now a museum which houses the floats used during Holy Week. We had seen similar floats in Zamora, where they seemed more ’emotional’ or perhaps ‘realistic’.
This is the highest part of the town, and apparently the castle previously stood here. This was the Jewish quarter and the synagogue was also in this area. It is quite difficult to work out the timeline as the different cultures (Arab, Jewish, Christian) were all very active in the city.
Floats which are paraded along the streets during Holy Week
The Cathedral of Santa Maria in Calahorra
This was the first of the churches in Calahorra that we visited. It was our first day in the town, and very grey, wet and cold. The church stands at the bottom of the hill, and it is a very steep hill, so be warned!
As you enter the choir is a remarkable sight, but the church felt heavy, and oppressive. There was a guided tour, with a little man droning on and on – we took one of these tours in Burgos because it was the only way of seeing the Convent and it was exceedingly boring. Never again!
This extraordinary statue did appeal to me.
The two Patron Saints of Calahorra look at you from under the High Altar – bizarre. San Emeterio and San Celedonio were possibly two brothers, Roman soldiers, who converted to Christianity and as a result were beheaded in 298 AD.
The Reredos of the High Altar was destroyed in a fire in 1900 and this one dates from 1904.
Looking at these photographs now, I wonder if we were too hasty and should have returned on a sunny day…
It is always interesting to visit churches, and the church in Calahorra were no exception. Just be aware this is a hilly city!
I would love to hear from you!