The heyday of Lerma was in the 16th and 17th centuries when the Duke of Lerma built his somewhat ostentatious Ducal Palace, today’s Paradore of Lerma. Francisco Gomez de Sandoval (1553-1635) was the 4th Duke of Lerma and a favourite of Philip III of Spain.
Inside the Paradore of Lerma
We had a room at a corner of the building, overlooking the Arlanza River and the countryside to the north. The views from the windows were wonderful!
The food was absolutely delicious and we were able to indulge in sweetbreads and mash flavoured with garlic and saffron, turbot, canellones stuffed with mushrooms, steak and squid ‘meatballs’ and green beans. We each had different dishes for dinner which accounts for the superabundance of Food!
A central courtyard functioned as a lounge and bar in the evening and I enjoyed a glass of cava while he had a G&T – no measuring of tots here!
Plaza Mayor
Wednesdays are market day and this van was selling piles of very nice-looking fruit. I bought enormous flat peaches and nectarines and a huge sapo de miel melon to take to our next, self-catering stop.
Views from the Paradore
The views from the bedroom windows were stunning! Once the fields to the north had been formal gardens and orchards belonging to Duke. Today there are sports fields and a small industrial estate, as well as another hotel.
Early morning
Magic!
The few days at the Paradore of Lerma were absolutely wonderful – comfortable, relaxed and well-fed.
David Underdown
The Duke was a great patron of the arts in general, including music. I have a double CD recorded 29 years ago by Paul McCreesh and the Gabrieli Consort & Players “Music for the Duke of Lerma” which recreates services from October 1617 attended by the Duke and Philip III. Can probably be found on streaming services these days
Candy Blackham
Thanks for this!