Apparently there were once thirty six churches and monasteries in Soria! They are not all extant, so don’t worry, I am just going to mention those we visited. One post will visit the religious buildings inside the walls, and the second those outside the walls. The church had huge power, and wealth, and so it is important to visit these buildings and try and understand a little about their history, or so I believe.
Co-Cathedral of San Pedro
The Co-Cathedral was always closed during our past visits, but we were lucky this time! The church was originally established in the 12th century, and held by Augustinian Canons. Rebuilt in the 16th century, the church is absolutely vast inside. Co-Cathedral because the cathedral is in Burgo de Osma. San Pedro stands close to the bridge over the Duero.
Nuestra Señora del Espina
The Church of the Virgin of the Thorn stands next to the cemetery on the hill where the Parador and Castle are situated. It hides behind trees, and we have never found it open! It dates from
San Juan Rabanera
We walked past this lovely, Romanesque church every day; we were staying close by, and it was on our route into the town centre. The Rabanera were people who started repopulating the city in the 12th century, and they gave their name to the church, apparently.
Santa Maria la Mayor
The church stands on one side of the Plaza Mayor, and this was the church in which Machado married Leonor. (More to come about Machado.)
Three Convents
The nuns celebrate evensong here at 7.00pm in the evenings, and it s sung in planchant. In the past we attended evensong in the 16th century Convent of Santo Domingo, but this time, for various reasons, we just sat quietly in the church and thought about friends.
There was a service in the Convent of the Barefoot Carmelites, which also dates from the 16th century, so no photographs. But we had visited before. It feels like a particularly ‘feminine’ church…
The former Convent of Santa Clara stands just behind where we were staying, and we had visited before, but the church was closed this time.
You really can’t visit Soria without going inside the many churches, and then spending time exploring their history
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