Wandering in Santiago de Compostela

We were feeling good – a somewhat pain-free day – and so decided to go wandering in Santiago de Compostela.

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Walls of Santiago

The Medieval town was walled, but the walls were mainly demolished towards the end of the 19th century. The Mazarelos Arch is the only part of the wall which remains today, and was apparently the gate which admitted pilgrims on the Via de la Plata. (I think the gate may be at bottom right of the 1595 map.)

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Streets and Squares

You could spend days exploring the streets and squares in the old town of Santiago – few hours only gives a taste of this old town. But the sky was blue, and it was warm, and the hours were most enjoyable. We wandered onwards from the Arch of Mazarelos…

The street led through to another small square, the Praza da Fonte Seca, the square with a dry fountain.

The Praza Entrepacinas (the square between squares!) is quiet and pleasant, surrounded with historically important buildings, which are described here. The statue is of Alfonso II, King of the Asturias, who was based in Oviedo. He endorsed the discovery of the tomb of St James in Santiago, and is said to have initiated the Caminos – the route from Oviedo is acknowledged as the original route.

Squres surround the Cathedral and the largest is the Obradoiro Square where the pilgrims gather when they reach Santiago. The Fonseca Palace is just down from the Obradoiro Square.

We walked into the Praza das Praterias on our first day in Santiago, when it was crammed with visitors trying to see the Cathedral, pilgrims, and protestors. It is named after silversmiths who used to work in this area.

The Praza de Cervantes is just round the corner from the Cathedral, and it dates back to the 12th century. It has had a colourful history; the square where the Spanish Inquisition denounced people; a gallows; and at one point the main market was situated here. When the market moved in the 19th century the square acquired its current name. The Church of San Bieito do Campo is similarly aged; sadly it didn’t visit.

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Shopping

OK, it was only window-shopping, but the quality of the goods, particularly the clothes, is amazing…! I was tempted by the fabrics, but then I remembered my stash, and the fact that I am probably heading for a new sewing machine. I think I have terminally damaged my 50-year old machine…

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Market Church

The Church of San Felix de Solovio is next to the market, and is open to Anglicans today. It is reputed to be the site of the oldest church in the city – the original church was built in the 10th century

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The Market

The market looks old, but actually dates from 1941. I found it a very attractive area and as always longed to go shopping. It wasn’t fully functioning but the meat, fish and fruit and vegetables on show were amazing, as always. One hall was given over to eateries, but there is a limit to how much I can manage in a day, however tempting this looked!

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A last look at the Cathedral

We ended the day with a last look at the Cathedral and pilgrims!

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Italian Food!

Yes! By now we just couldn’t face more squid or octopus and found a very nice Italian restaurant, Bresca, where we indulged in very good pasta and salads on two night!

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Wandering in Santiago de Compostela is extremely rewarding, even when conducted in a somewhat haphazard way! But in order to really understand the city, its history, and what it offers we really needed at least another week.