The few days in Verin were low-key, relaxing, and very enjoyable. Now it was time to move on again and we set off, to drive from Verin to Monforte de Lemos which we had last visited in 2019.
Allariz
We stopped in Allariz after forty five minutes for a walk to ease back pain, and a coffee. And it was a good choice! The town hides away from the main road, in a valley of the Arnoia River. It is another town with prehistoric origins which became important in the Middle Ages when it was walled and fortified. It was apparently the residence of kings in the 11th and 12th centuries (there is a castle on top of the hill), and many aristocratic families also lived here. The town declined in the late Middle Ages, recovering in the 15th century. On the north-east side the town also sheltered a large Jewish community, outside the walls.
In the 19th century the economy was based on linen and leather – today?
We wandered down the hill, past solid granite buildings, down streets where the shade is black and the light is blinding – very difficult photography!
A pilgrim route runs through Allariz. It seems to be known as the Ourense Way, a combination of the Via de la Plata and the Camino.
The Festa de boi is a festival of ten days which takes place every year. A particular feature of the festival is leading a bull through the streets.
“According to the records, in 1317 a deeply religious nobleman from Allariz named Xan de Arzúa wanted to put an end to the Jews’ mockery and insults of the Corpus Christi procession, which was in retaliation to the constant persecution by the Christians. So, he led the procession on the back of an ox, loaded with sacks of ants that he threw at the Jews. The nobleman left money in his will that was enough for an ox to walk through the streets every year. And that is how it is done today.“1
Church of San Pedro in Allariz
We happened on this little 12th century church close to the old walls of Allariz. It was dark, and quiet, and welcoming. I particularly loved the statue on one wall – the way in which the head was inclined… The original church has been much changed over the centuries, but it still maintained an atmosphere.
River Arnoia in Allariz
The river is a focal point of the historic centre in the town. But it is more complex than a series of nice walks. The reserve of the river is apparently a ‘biotectonic depression’![efn-note]https://elecoturista.com/experiencias/bosque-del-rio-arnoia-en-allariz/[/efn_note] (And the Minho and Sis Gorges may be similar features.2) We only had a short time in the town, but the walk along the river was breath-taking.
Refreshments!
This little cafe is opposite the square where we parked the car. It was bustling with locals and so we popped in for coffee and herbal tea made from red fruits – very nice indeed.
Allariz to Monforte
And then we were back on the road – the motorway this time. The motorway runs outside Ourense and we were soon down on the river Minho in the middle of the town, and quickly out again, heading into the spectacular Minho gorges.
Monforte de Lemos
We surfaced on to the plateau above the gorges and headed towards the Parador of Monforte de Lemos.
The drive from Verin to Monforte de Lemos was relatively easy, and we enjoyed the stop in Allariz. Nevertheless, we were tired by the end of the day!
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