The Cathedral and Diocesan Museum in Jaca are ‘must-visit’ and ‘keep returning’ sites. And because both are in the centre of the old town, on the edge of a well-used plaza with cafes, there seem to be people popping in and out at all times of the day.
The Cathedral
The Cathedral of San Pedro in Jaca is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Spain, and dates from the 11th century. I think the images speak for themselves.
Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum opened in 1970 and is above all known for the display of murals.
The first capital depicts King David as a musician, apparently a common Romanesque theme along the Camino; a satyr on the second capital? and the final capital apparently depicts lust.
The Murals
Murals have been preserved from various churches around Jaca. The paintings were removed from the churches in the 1960s by a process in which the paint was transferred to canvas to be moved, and then stuck to another canvas to be displayed. (A rather rough explanation of what was done!) The Refectory of the Cathedral was adapted to display the murals, in imitation of a Romanesque church.
The Hermitage of San Juan Bautista in Ruesta, just south of the Reservoir of Yesa, had the 12th century paintings (below) in the apse.
The Church of San Esteban in Urries, not far from Ruesta, had murals painted in the early 14th century depicting scenes from Genesis, and the childhood and Passion of Christ. The restoration work is quite mind-boggling.
The murals from the Church of San Miguel de Sieso are from the 16th century and depict the seven deadly sins. Gluttony rides on a pig (with a white devil on his shoulder); anger sticks a sword in his back; and lust is a woman on a goat.
In the Church of Muestra Senora de Asuncion in Navasa the murals were painted around 1200.
The murals in the ‘apse’ are taken from the Church of Saints Julián and Basilisa in Bagüés and were created in the 11th century. They are the largest ensemble of Romanesque paintings in Spain.
The murals in the Church of Saints Julián and Basilisa in Bagüés were created in the 11th century. Amongst other images is the ‘Resurrection of Lazarus’.
Second floor of the museum
The museum continues on a second floor, with paintings, carvings and silverware, but the murals were so overwhelming, and ‘alive’, it was impossible to take in much else.
A visit to the Cathedral and Diocesan Museum in Jaca was really quite enough brainwork for one day, but what a day!
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