Ezkerekotxe
I don’t know how to start pronouncing the name of this village! We noticed it from the main road, on our way back from Salvatierra, and decided to investigate. It is a very quiet, rural village of c.50 inhabitants, and over 1000 years old. The huge church is 12th century and perhaps so big because the village lies on the Camino.
The Church of St Roman
The church1 is in the middle of the small village, on a small square. The building is a curious shape, and I think the vicarage is attached, on the left.
The main door into the church is through the curved arch, It is carved but badly eroded, and of course the church was locked.
As you walk round the building the Romanesque end is more obvious, and here is a most beautiful window, with the carvings still in good order. This window is apparently 12th century. It is interesting to try and understand the details of the carvings – another book…! You could spend some weeks just investigating Romanesque art in the Basque country!2 This amazing church, with paintings, is just outside Salvatierra.
Arrieta
This was another small village in the valley, surrounded by agricultural land.
The Church of Santa Magdalena was again disproportionate to the size of the village, and locked. Unusually, the cemetery was small, walled, and attached to the church.
The Parador of Argomaniz
It had been a long day, and it was now time to return to the wondefully comfortable Parador of Argomaniz.
The Parador opened in 1978, using the 17th century Larrea Palace. Before this, it was a Convent for Poor Clares, and in the Peninsular war it apparently housed French troops, even Napoleon.
Another wonderful day in Spain, and as I write about it I am made aware, again, of how much more there is to learn, and see. The Parador was very good to us during these days, regularly warming up my beanbag, providing comfortable surroundings, and feeding us extremely well!
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