I thought we should have a visit to Sanguesa while staying in the Parador of Olite. We had popped into the town on a previous visit and I thought it would be interesting to return.
Read more: A visit to SanguesaA brief history
Sanguesa was the capital of one of the six ‘counties’ into which the old Kingdom of Navarre was divided. It was located here in the 11th century when the bridge was built over the River Aragon. And it has always been a stopping point on the Camino. It started life as Rocaforte, a settlement on the hill above Sanguesa, and about 3kms away – another little fact which might have been explored if I had found out earlier! But it couldn’t expand on the hilltop and so moved on to the plain. Urghh!
The Church of Santa Maria la Real
King Alfonso I granted the Church to the Order of St John of Jerusalem in the early 12th century. It stands next to the bridge over the River Aragon, at the end of the Calle Mayor. It was apparently for defensive purposes in the wars of the 18th century.
Facade of the church
The facade is beautiful, and detailed.
The columns of figures were made by Leodegarius, a French sculptor who lived at the end of the 12th century. Other sculptors are associated with the remainder of the door.
Inside the Church of Santa Maria
I hadn’t been inside the church before and so this was a treasure opportunity. It is a Romanesque Church so very austere inside, but also very quiet. Instead of being dazzled by gold decoration around the altar, and in the chapels, the light is subdued, and softened by the alabaster windows.
The Main Street
There are fine, old palaces in the Main Street, with wide, carved eaves. And plenty of coats-of-arms which would tell you much about the history of the area – too much to learn, not enough time…
The Palace of Vallesantoro is now the cultural centre. As we were passing a lady standing outside stopped us, and urged us to go inside. There was an interior courtyard and on the second floor is a portrait of Don Miguel de Azanza (1was 746-1826) painted by Agustin Esteve, and assistant of Goya, no less! It was apparently discovered in the Convent of Carmen in 1968 and has been restored. Don Miguel held high office but sympathised with Bonaparte and so had to go into exile, where he died.
It was market day, so there was a certain amount of hustle and bustle, and as always shop windows were enticing.
Church of Santiago el Mayor
The name of the church emphasises that Sanguesa is on the Camino. It dates from the 12th and 13th centuries and combines Romanesque and Gothic elements. It was, as always with these very old churches, calming. I felt as though I could sit there for several hours.
The River Aragon
We walked along the river for a while. It is a tributary of the Ebro and flows for c.80 miles. It too has a tributary, the Arga River which flows through Pamplona. The water is used for irrigation and hydroelectric power. And then it was time to return to Sos.
Another rewarding day exploring, this time in Sanguesa.
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