We had come to Santiago de Compostela to see the cathedral and so once we had settled into our very interesting hotel we walked into the town. We had already seen many pilgrims walking the Portuguese Camino, and it seemed important to visit the destination which was the goal of their journeys.
Read more: Santiago de CompostelaThe Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
The site of the cathedral is where St James, one of the Apostles, is said to be buried. His tomb was apparently rediscovered here in the 9th century and King Alfonso II ordered a chapel to be built on the site. At the end of the 10th century the Moors destroyed the church.
The current Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela dates from the 11th and 12th centuries, and like most of these churches it has been adapted in subsequent centuries.
We joined a long queue to gain entry to the cathedral, and it took forty minutes before we were let in. A mass was underway and the church was packed. The spiritual atmosphere was strong, but of course no photographs were allowed. We waited until the mass was over; the lights were dimmed, and somehow the atmosphere dissipated as well. The building felt more like a tourist stop than a religious site – and there were still long queues, this time inside the building, with people waiting to touch the statue of St James.
After the mass was over I took out the camera, but I had lost the inclination – the building and I just weren’t communicating in the same way as on a previous visit.
Pilgrims
No-one was allowed to take big bags or rucksacks into the cathedral, so they were stacked outside. Pilgrims thronged the streets and were clearly identified by their rucksacks, usually adorned with a scallop shell, or perhaps because they were wearing sandals and looked very fit!
It is popular to undertake a Camino these days, and there are many routes. You can do it the hard way, with a rucksack, or use a travel company which will carry your luggage for you. Part of me feels sceptical about the motives of the many younger people undertaking the walk, but this is probably unfair. There was unquestionably a spiritual atmosphere in the cathedral during the mass, and some of the many blog sites tell a different story.
Protestors
It was the anniversary of the Hamas attack on Israel and thousands across Europe and elsewhere were marching in protest at Israel’s subsequent actions. In Santiago thousands of people marched round the city for some hours.
Towards the end of the march we came close to the protestors and I was quite shaken by the strong feelings coming out of the crowd. It made me realise just how dangerous rabble-rousing techniques and speeches can be, and what power they can unleash.
Hotel Araguaney
It was good to return to the comfort of the Hotel Araguaney, a very different kind of hotel to the paradors! Our room was delightful, with a small balcony – it allowed us to feel less ‘trapped’. The hotel decorations were ‘exuberant’, and there was art everywhere.
Art on every wall!
Our first impressions of Santiago de Compostela, after many years, were somewhat subdued. But we were sure a decent dinner and a stiff drink or two would be the answer!