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Monterrei Castle at Verin

Monterrei Castle stands on a high hill overlooking the valley of the Tamega River. and ten minutes away from the Parador of Verin. You can see it from some distance away as you approach the town!

Monterrei Castle

The hill was once topped by the Castro de Baronceil. In the 13th century King Alfonso IX of Leon built a castle over the Castro which he renamed Monte Rey. Although the castle was demolished in war, it was rebuilt later in the 13th century by his grandson. The current castle dates from the 15th century and three series of defensive walls.

Monterrei Castle

The site apparently had the first printing press in Galicia (can’t find a date) and was an active cultural centre.2 A paved road leads down the hill from the castle to the San Lazaro quarter of Verin, not far from the bridge over the river in the centre of the town. There has been much local protest to maintain and retain this road in its original state, rather than developing it as a tourist route to the castle.

Camino real down to Verin
Camino Real from Monterrei down to Verin

Walking around the castle

We found a small path around the castle walls and were able to walk a short way around the hill. I found a small plant with white flowers which defeats me, ferns, holm oaks, and an oak (pin oak?) which I can’t identify without my Collins! Hmmm…

Under the walls of Monterrei Castle
Looking out over the valley

Defeated by the wildness of the hillside we retreated to the other side of the castle where there was a clearer path. Here we found considerable fire damage – no wonder the Parador had been closed for a time, and guests evacuated to the Parador on the Sil River, near Ourense.

Under the walls of Monterrei Castle
Under the walls of Monterrei Castle
Fire damage under the walls of Monterrei Castle

Although the Castle of Monterrei is closed for works, we enjoyed short walks around some of the walls, and down the Camino Real. Given more time we might have tried approaching the castle on one of the small roads on the opposite side of the hill, but the buildings would still have been closed!

Sources

  1. Major extensions were added later to create monasteries for Franciscans and Jesuits, and after the Mendizabal closures the site fell into disrepair until the 1960s. At this point a hostel was established.

    Sadly the site is closed to the public for major renovation/restoration work. But it was more than just a fortress and the current plants to convert to a hotel in the Paradore chain don’t seem quite adequate.

    On the adjacent hill is the Tower of Atalaya which was apparently a watchtower and part of the defensive structure of the castle. It dates from 1664 and is not accessible to the public.


    Camino Real from Monterrei Castle to Verin

    Was this perhaps a Roman road?1https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-a-pie/monterrei-polos-caminos-reais-14566667

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