Ferrol is really about the sea: the docks and ships in Ferrol dominate the town. We encountered two problems during our time here. The camera operator was the first problem – she managed to compose some really nice photos along the front, but messed up the ISO settings… The second problem lay ahead.
Read more: The Docks and Ships in FerrolThe Arsenal
“The port of Ferrol is one of the safest in the world due to the particular shape of its estuary and orography. Towards the end of the 16th Century, King Philip II decided that Ferrol’s estuary should be used as the base for the Royal Army. In the 18th Century, Ferrol was designated capital of the Maritime Department of the North. Phillip I ordered the creation of the Royal Arsenal and the subsequent shipyard in the nearby village of A Graña. Later, Ferdinand VI ordered the construction of a mayor shipyard in the village of Ferrol, dedicated almost exclusively to the construction of Army ships. Thus, the Ideal port of the Enlightenment was born, a certain name that Ferrol uses in its aspiration to be acknowledged as World Heritage status.”1
We saw some of the buildings inside the walls when we visited the Naval Museum, but we also traced the walls from the Navantia yards to the Marina. Today the Arsenal has two areas of interest: the original docks, with the shipping function in the west, and Navantia’s shipbuilding yards in the east. (I have added the Parador which is hidden under no.9.)
Navantia
Navantia is Spain’s leading state-owned company building ships and military equipment. It has two bases in Spain – Cadiz and Ferrol – and four sites in the UK – Belfast, Appledore, Methil, and Arnish.
The Navantia site in Ferrol – viewed from the outside
The old buildings
The Arsenal is divided into two because one part was ‘military’ and the other industrial: the Arsenal del Parque (industrial) is the western part, and the Arsenal de los Dique (Military side).
The Dolores Barracks are apparently the oldest in Spain and is still in use as a barracks for sailors.
During the Civil War the arsenal was apparently used as a concentration camp for Republican prisoners.
The Naval Museum
The Naval Museum was fascinating for Jeremy, and hard work for me!
Christopher Columbus features heavily, with models of his ships. Apparently one of his voyages may have started in Ferrol.
There are also plenty of nautical instruments in the museum – can’t tell you much more!
And lots of models of ships!
The Marina (Curuxeiras)
This old port was also dates from the 18th century and now seems to be a marina for pleasure. Opposite the marina is where the English Camino begins, and we noted a few pilgrims looking slightly puzzled about the route.
Baluarte (bulwark) de San Juan
“Located in the Old Town of Ferrol, it is one of the most important remains of the 18th century Ferrol defensive wall, along with the King’s Baluarte, the Canido Baluarte and the Fontelonga Gate.
From its top you can see a magnificent panoramic view of the port of Curuxeiras, kilometer 0 of the English Way of Santiago de Compostela, the Ferrol estuary and the battery known as La Cortina del Arsenal, a great example of what was understood by military defensive line in the eighteenth century.”2
You need a lot more time to explore the naval and military history of Ferrol! We wanted to stay longer, the Parador was already fully booked in January for the time we wanted. The Paradors have become notieably more popular, with Spaniards and large groups. But nevertheless we managed quite a lot of exploring!