The drive from Santiago de Compostela to Ferrol was quite short so we stopped in Betanzos for a little look-round. The town sounded interesting on the internet, but of course it proved to be much more than that, and the little stop proved to be quite tiring!
Read more: Santiago de Compostela to FerrolOn the road
Driving out of Santiago was fine and we were soon on the motorway. Driving into Betanzos was quite a different matter. It was all too tense to even take photographs.
Betanzos
Betanzos dates back to pre-Roman times and has always been an important town in Galicia. Evidence of power is wealth is still visible in the monuments, mansions, and churches. It was a walled town and three of the town gates remain. In the Middle Ages the Andrade family wielded the power; in the 19th century it was the Garcia Naveira brothers, ‘Indianos’, who became benefactors in the town. Today the town is visited by tourists, and pilgrims – Betanzos is on the English Camino. We parked in the Praza de Galicia, outside the walls, and set off to explore – up the hill!
Up the hill!
It is a steep hill, and we felt a coffee at the top was justified.
Church of Santiago (St James)
Architecturally, the church is at the transition of the Romanesque to Gothic styles. We had a complicated, detailed account from the warden, but it was in Spanish….
The carvings over the West Door were fantastical – beasts, ‘birds’, foliage, apostles and others. At some point I need to try and understand more about the significance of these figures.
Narrow streets
The town retains a Mediaeval feel, with quiet narrow streets sloping down to the river. Thankfully the Mediaeval odours were absent.
The Church of San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco dates from the 14th/15th centuries, and was built over an earlier church. It was built by Fernán Pérez de Andrade, ‘O Boo’, a Galician nobleman, who wanted a mausoleum for his family. He was a cultured man, interested in poetry, books, and hunting. The family was long-established in the area but under Fernán Pérez de Andrade they became the most powerful family in this part of Galicia. He was eventually Lord of the villages of Ferrol, Pontedeume, and Vilalba.
The church is known for its collection of Mediaeval tombs.
The rivers
The rivers on two sides of Betanzos are the Mandeo and the Mendo. They come together forming the Ria of Betanzos. “Until the 18th century the port of Betanzos was one of the most important fishing and trade centres of the Ancient Kingdom of Galicia. The river sediment that filled the estuary and reduced its depth was one cause, among others, for the decrease in sea traffic.” 1 There is still a little port where the two rivers come together.
The Mendo River flows into the town through what looks like wonderfully beautiful countryside – if only one had more time!
On the road again
And then it was time to get back on to the road, and find the Parador in Ferrol.
The Parador of Ferrol
The Parador was a stately mansion at some point, and our room was on the corner of the first floor, with two small enclosed balcony/windows (see below). We had views over the Arsenal and the bay, and it was quite wonderful.
It was a long day, travelling from Santiago de Compostela to Ferrol, and we sank gratefully into a hot bath, followed by a good dinner and a medicinal glass or three.